Moscow

On the way to the army base we pass some dark trees, just visible in the horribly soggy March snow that is doing nothing to enhance this already depressed looking suburb of Moscow. Natasha is worried because we are near Bitssa Park, that for some time harboured the notorious Chessboard Killer. When we arrive at the base, Sergey comes out through the gates, past the guards and the high walls and we walk towards a nearby apartment block. He looks completely different in his fur hat with badge and green camoflague. He is allowed the fur hat, which doubles as a pillow, because of the four years he spent at military university training to become an officer. After deciding that it was not the career for him he had to work hard to get kicked out, as the army do not want to let such a costly investment go easily. Even after leaving he still has to serve for a few months, though as the commander of a unit of new recruits. His duties seem to consist mainly of watching his troops move snow and pulling all night stints in order to do his Major's English homework. The Major has just asked him to teach his son English, on the army's time, obviously.

In the one of the hallways of the apartment block, where it is a little warmer, we do an interview and he shows me the badge hidden inside his uniform that says "Imagine Peace". I realise that what we are doing can't look anything but suspicious and the old ladies who walk past, glare suspiciously, having lived through times when an Englishman with a microphone was a national emergency. Then one such lady knocks on some nearby doors and another soldier pokes his head out, looking over quizzically. Sergey thinks we should adjourn to the children's playground outside. Here Natasha sits on the back of a bench while we finish the interview, then three policemen arrive and Sergey suggests that its better if I don't talk for a while.

TRAVELLERS TIP: Don't buy anything in Moscow unless it is absolutely essential to your survival. However far you are from the centre, however much the shop looks like a discount store you won't find a cheap pair of jeans.