West Siberian Railway Museum

I sense that my decision to pay the accordion player has had a mixed reception. On the one hand he is moving off down the carriage but at the same time the fact I also photographed him means that I have condoned his actions and thus encouraged him to sing more lustily, an unpopular move. The lady across the aisle is glaring at me but she's been doing that the whole way anyway. The guy opposite looks impassive but I've learned throughout the trip not to be discouraged by someone's facial expression, especially not in Russia. I'd draw the line at the elderly accordian hater, who seems to genuinely dislike me already. I ask him when my stop is and he politely tells me that it is in three stops but that his is the next one. I find out a bit more about Andrey, from the Altay region but studying in Novosibirsk before we arrive but then he must go. Except when the train leaves he comes back into the carriage and plonks himself down next to me, saying that he has decided to visit the West Siberian Railway Museum too.

We explain to the security guard why we climbed over the fence. We had taken a wrong turning and didn't want to walk through anymore snow as our boots were already full. Now we are on our way to the ticket office. This is satisfactory to him and after paying we get on with looking at the trains, many many trains. Despite appearances, I am after all doing the longest train journey in the world, I really know next to nothing about trains. I know what I like, which is massive steam trains with big wheels, lots of pipes and preferably some sort of communist insignia but I am very hazy on the technical details. Thankfully, by an incredible coincidence, one of the three other European vistors is Professor Dirk Forschner, a German train expert who speacialises in the history of technological development of the railways, especially in China. He is incredibly interesting to interview and I think he is interested in my trip as well. Particularly interesting are the various collaborative trains, the work of several countries, something Professor Forschner says is something that has charaterised railway history. He also bemoans the state of the locomotives here, for while the collection is undeniably large, the trains are kept outside, exposed to the elements and only superfically maintained. The professor compares it with England, having visited Dorset to see the steam engines there. These are mainatined privately by lovers and steam and are thus pristine and in full working order, while the engines at this state run museum will never run again.

The quantity is nonetheless impressive. Andrei and I find not only trains but a haphazardly parked group of cars, various engineering carriages, a giant railway snow mover, old tractors and even a tank. I clamber on top to try the hatch then see a security guard approaching but its either part of the entrance fee or he can't be bothered to come across the icy pathyways to stop us. I clamber inside and try the oil covered controls.

On the way home the sun is setting. There are three ice fisherman in the carriage with their kit spread out all around. They have caught three kilograms of fish today and are well pleased. Andrey gets off at the station he meant to leave at this morning, saying that he has enjoyed our trip to the museum.