La Rochelle

I have rented a yellow bicycle many times in La Rochelle except always while sitting in a classroom in rain soaked England not in sun soaked Place de Verdun in La Rochelle. I explain my excitement to the jolly, white-haired Frenchman behind the counter and he laughs saying they have excellent advertising.

The previous night I arrived late but in time for a brief saunter through the town that of my textbooks. I ended up reaching a small grassy spur that juts out into the harbour in front of the famous towers. Feeling that the trip has recently lacked the reckless stupidity that has characterised other journeys I decide to go for a swim, piling my clothes neatly on the steps. I get in up to my knees but the water is painfully cold and just makes me want to go to the toilet. Thus in the dark waters of the harbour, where the reflections of the towers shine brightly, I stage a small English assault on the once well fortified and well fought over town.

In the morning a take a more conventional tour of the towers, climbing to the top through the ingenious double spiral staircase and small stone passageways, to admire the stunning view of the town.

TRAVELLERS' TIP: Mind your head.

In the Captain's Room there is something called a bestiary, which is thought to convey hopes for the town through animal metaphor. France and England are shown as two dog-like beasts fighting over a bone, representing La Rochelle, then being placated by the mayor and finally becoming "entwined" as a result of mutual trade. La Rochelle was important because it was the largest trading port on the Atlantic coast and had then been granted commune status making it autonomous, to an extent, from the French king, and a refuge for the protestant Hugenots. However, Louis XIII declared war after a revolt in 1625 and Cardinal Richlieu then attacked the city, leading to the Seige of La Rochelle: Parte Deux (Parte Une had been in 1572 - 73). This is all much more pithily conveyed in the city motto 'La Rochelle: Belle et Rebelle', without doubt one of the best tourist slogans I've ever seen.